BMX BUYING ADVICE

The complete BMX buying guide for beginners

Want to buy your first BMX bike but don't know where to start? From the right size to the perfect brand – you'll find all the important answers to help you make your decision here.

Since 2008, we've been advising BMX beginners on buying their first bike. In 16 years in the market, we've sold over 10,000 BMX bikes and learned what really matters. We're sharing that experience with you here.

Whether you're 8 or 28 years old, buying your first BMX can be overwhelming. What size is right? Which brand suits me? How much should I spend? Our team knows these questions from hundreds of consultations and provides all the answers you need.

From the right wheel size and frame geometry to budget tips – with this buyer's guide, you're guaranteed to find the BMX that's right for you. No technical jargon, just the experience of 16 years in the BMX business.

BMX-BIKE GRÖSSE FINDEN

Die richtige BMX-Größe ist entscheidend für Fahrspaß und Sicherheit. Unser BMX-Größenratgeber hilft dir dabei, das perfekte BMX-Bike zu finden.

Laufradgröße: 20 Zoll ist Standard für BMX-Räder. Für Kinder gibt es kleinere Größen von 12" bis 18".

Rahmengröße: Die Oberrohrlänge bestimmt die Größen XS, Small, Medium, Large und XL. Nutze unseren interaktiven BMX-Größenrechner für eine persönliche Empfehlung basierend auf deiner Körpergröße.

Berechne deine BMX Rad Größe

Perfekte BMX-Größe gefunden!
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1. BMX frame

The BMX frame is the heart of your bike. Entry-level models use robust steel tubing, while for advanced riders we recommend 4130 chromoly steel – lighter, more durable, and perfect for intense tricks.

Frame geometry significantly influences handling. Especially with high-quality BMX bikes, top tube length and angle determine maneuverability and stability.

Here you will find a selection of BMX frames.

2. BMX forks

BMX forks follow the same material rule as frames: Chromoly steel is lighter and more robust than Hi-Ten steel - especially important for hard landings and tricks.

Pay attention to these quality features:

  • CNC CNC machined fork steerer tube for maximum durability
  • Tapered fork legs reduce weight while providing a cleaner look
  • Perfect fit for your BMX frame

Check out our BMX fork here.

3. Handlebars

Handlebars, or simply "bars," follow the same principle regarding materials: 4130 steel is the best choice, and butted tubes save weight, making load-bearing capacity less of a concern. Size is subjective, and the "rise" option refers to the handlebar height. There are two types of handlebars: two-piece and four-piece. These refer to the number of tubes the handlebars are made of. The function and feel of these handlebars are identical to those of four-piece handlebars. This model is more durable but also heavier.

4. Tax rates

There are two types of headsets : A-type headsets are traditional models with external bearing cups (in which the bearings sit), while integrated headsets have sealed bearings that sit inside the frame. Integrated headsets save weight, look better, and last longer.

5. Brakes

Some riders use them, some don't. If you're new to BMX or live on a hill, you'll definitely use the rear brake! All our complete bikes come with brakes, while our high-end models feature removable brake mounts that are easy to take off and put on. Although bikes are rarely pictured with front brakes, all our bikes come with them.

6. Front wheel hub

When buying top-of-the-line bikes, look for unsealed bearings; they last longer and require less maintenance. There are also two types of axles: male and female. Female axles offer a cleaner look, but both types are compatible with all types of forks and bikes.

7. Rear wheel hub

There are three main types. A freewheel hub, and the more reliable and responsive cassette hub, or freecoaster. Cassette hubs come with smaller gears (usually 9 teeth) and are found on most bikes. Partially sealed cassette hubs are good, but fully sealed models are better, and aftermarket hubs are the absolute best. Also, look out for freecoaster hubs on high-end bikes: these allow you to ride "fakie" (backwards), as the cranks don't turn when you're rolling backwards.

8. Drive

Depending on the desired gear ratio, the front sprocket and the rear freewheel or cassette hub play a crucial role. The smaller the chainring, the more weight is saved and the more leeway you have when riding ramps or grinding. A 25-9t cassette is best for complete bikes.

9. Rim

The outer side of the wheel. They come in single-wall or double-wall versions. Double-wall rims are more stable and stiffer and are more important for rear wheels, which are subjected to greater stress than front wheels.

10. Tires

Aftermarket tires are best suited for this purpose. The size (width) of the tires varies and depends on the rider's personal preferences. A width of 2.2 inches is average.

11. Crankset & Bottom Bracket

Cranks are subject to heavy wear and tear and must be robust enough to withstand the demands of riding. Tubular cranks are the best choice, while brand-name cranks are even better. There are two types of bottom brackets (BB): US-BB (United States Bottom Bracket) are larger and unsealed. The smaller Mid-BB (Mid Bottom Bracket) are almost always sealed and therefore more robust, last longer, and require minimal maintenance.

12. Pedals

Most bikes nowadays come with plastic pedals ; the brand-name models are usually the best. Aluminum pedals last longer and offer more grip, but can cause more pain to your shins if you slip, and are generally heavier as well.

13. Saddles

There are four different saddle types: Railed or Combo saddles are found on beginner bikes, while Pivotal or Tripod saddles are found on intermediate and pro bikes. These models are easier to mount/adjust and are lighter. They also offer more replacement options, without needing to change the seatpost.

14. Extensions

This part holds the handlebars to the fork. All stems are of comparable quality, but CNC-machined models are lighter and offer a cleaner look. Stems clamp the handlebars either from above (top-loading) or from the front (front-loading).